Monday, March 23, 2015

Indonesia 2: Bali

From Flores I flew to Bali where the main area I wanted to check out was the highlands around Bedugul. The easiest site to visit was the Botanical Gardens there, an overly manicured National Trust style gardens, but surrounded by good quality mossy forests, with plenty of trails to explore.
New birds were plentiful, with Flame-fronted Barbet, Lesser Shortwing, Yellow-throated Hanging Parrot, Crescent-chested Babbler and Blood-breasted Flowerpecker, plus those photographed below being the stars.
Indonesian Honeyeater
Javan Whistling Thrush
Long-tailed Shrike
Siberian Thrush
Sunda Warbler

The south of the island, where most of the tourist infrastructure lies is a bit lacking in forest cover and coastal birding is the order of the day. A visit to the lagoons at Pulau Serangan was a bit of a distaster as I foolishly went on a weekend, when half of Bali and their families were there picnicing and fishing. This did mean though that I was able to slip past the check-point un-noticed in the crowds and take my camera onto the island, which is usually frowned upon.
Though I may have visited on the wrong day, I managed to time it right with the tide, and found a causeway with roosting waders and other bits and bobs flying low overhead as they were pushed off a lagoon by the rising tide

Assorted Sandplovers

Sunda Teal
Malaysian Plover
Beach Thick-knee
Gull-billed Tern

I then took a bus to Gilimanuk at the far west of the island, the departure point for ferries to Java.

Thursday, March 12, 2015

Indonesia 1: Flores

I've just returned from a brilliant month-long trip to Indonesia, a short trip by my standards, and definitely not enough to do justice to such a diverse and fascinating country. I had originally planned a fairly hardcore world-listing trip, 2 weeks each on Borneo and Sumatra at the key birding sites trying to mop up endemics, but an incredible opportunity for some more general guiding in the region next year came up (more on that story later) requiring me to spend some time getting to know a broader range of sites, so I hastily re-arranged my plans. Starting on the island of Flores I worked my way westwards to Sumatra at the other end of the country, via Bali and East Java (and missing out some enormous sections in-between).
Mostly being in rainforest, birding was difficult enough but itself and so I only came away with a few photos, almost all of which are of dubious quality, but i'll share a few on here over the next week or so. I went to fairly well known birding spots, all of which are covered by excellent reports of much more in-depth birding trips so i'll spare the gory details here...

On Flores I visited a couple of forested mountains; Puaralolo, near Labuan Bajo, where Flores Monarch, the main target was eventually seen down a narrow track behind a small building that appeared to be some sort of abandoned ranger station. Flores White-eye, Wallacean Drongo and Brown-capped Fantail were other good endemics. The town of Ruteng, c4hours to the East is a good base for other montane forest sites, the only one I got to was the pass at Golo Lusang. Highlight here was the dawn chorus from Bare-throated Whistler, like a Nightingale on steroids! Flores Minivet and Scaly-crowned Honeyeater were common here too.

Brown-capped Fantail

Flores White-eye
Flores Minivet

Wallacean Drongo

Flores Monarch

Scaly-crowned Honeyeater

Mountain White-eye

The main reason for visiting Flores though was for a trip into the legendary Komodo National Park. I took a boat out to Rinca Island, where the Komodo Dragons were loafing around, full of attitude. A couple of snorkelling stops on the ride back were mind-blowing, with pristine coral teeming with a bewildering variety of fish just a few metres off the beaches, birding took a backseat here.

Komodo Dragon

Orange-footed Scrubfowl

A short flight over Wallac'es Line took me to Bali, with its contrasting worlds of superclubs and cloud forest...

Sunday, December 14, 2014


I spent the last fortnight of November on a family holiday in Ethiopia, here's a few photos:

The main purpose for the trip was to trek in the Bale Mountains, a lush, green plateau that defies all expectations of Ethiopia. Highlight here was the Ethiopian Wolf, of which we saw 4, giving great views and completely unconcerned by our presence. The birding here was fantastic too, particularly for raptors. Small burrowing mammals are incredibly common and so are their predators, with Lanner Falcons, Steppe Eagles and Augur Buzzards pretty much constantly on show. Being a bit of a Crane fan, I was delighted to see a pair of Wattled Crane feeding distantly on the shores of a small lake, nearly 4000m above sea level. 
On the way to and from the mountains we stopped at Lake Ziway, in the Rift Valley. The main jetty was one of the most absurd birding experiences of my life, with ranks of Marabou Storks, Hammerkops and White Pelicans waiting to be fed by hand, while White-winged Terns swooped in for leftovers. A boat trip out on the lake got us up close to a Hippopotamus and an island covered in nesting African Darters, African Spoonbills and Black-headed Herons.
We then spent a few days at the resort town of Debre Zeyit, with its string of crater lakes, and then Ambo, for some hiking at the nearby Mount Wenchi.
African Paradise Flycatcher

Augur Buzzard
Bale Mountains campsite

African Wood Owl

Blue-winged Goose
Easy birding at Ziway

Abyssinian Catbird

Moorland Chat

Wattled Crane

Erlanger's Lark

Goliath Heron




Rock Hyrax

Isabelline Wheatear

Malachite Kingfisher

Mountain Wagtail

Mountain Nyala

Pallid Harrier

Pied Wheatear

Rougets Rail

Rupells Vulture

Common Redstart (samamiscus)

Silvery-cheeked Hornbill

African Spoonbill

Steppe Eagle

African Stonechat

Verraux's Eagle (and Chough)

Verraux's Eagle

White-cheeked Turaco

Ethiopian Wolf

Red-throated Wryneck
At the end of the holiday I managed to squeeze in a day trip to the grasslands of Awash NP, a must-visit site about 4 hours East of Addis Ababa. The park seems to have a strict policy preventing exploration on foot so I was limited to a few hours on a 'game drive' around the Oryx Plains, and a short stroll with an armed guide around the Awash Falls lodge and nearby campsite.

African Harrier Hawk


Northern Carmine Bee-eater

Long Crested Eagle

Namaqua Dove

Northern White-crowned Shrike

Besia Oryx 
Rosy-patched Bush Shrike

Tawny Eagle